http://www.converturcar.com.au/archives/80#more-80
Sparky
Sparkey at the Kenthurst fair
When I first had the idea to build an EV I started by looking for a car that had a light frame and was cheap. In essence if the idea was a waste of time in the end I could cut my losses and sell it for scrap. After looking around for virtually no time I came across an ad in the trading post for a 92’ Hyundai excel sprint for $500. It was close by so I went for a look with my next-door neighbour for a second opinion. What the owner showed me was a perfect for the job.
The paintwork was a little faded, but we concluded that the body was around 95% with one or two minor dents and no rust. The engine was ok but needed minor work and blew smoke. The interior needed a little love but it wasn’t bad for a 15-year-old car. When took my friend aside for a chat he said, “Your not going to do any better than that mate” we decided I’d buy it then and there.
Getting it home was fun. The car was fuel injected, had a non-functioning alternator and the battery was dead. After a jumpstart I drove it for about 150 meters and the engine stopped so I got a tow.
After making plans to obtain a motor, batteries and a controller I began by removing the engine and all its peripherals (radiator, exhaust system, fuel tank ext.). After this I started work on cutting out the tire well for the rear battery compartment. So I made a rather large hole in-between the rear sub frame structure and reinforced everything with 5×25x25 angle iron, which I welded in place. Sparky’s a little over engineered, but at the time considering this was all new territory to me I thought to myself make this indestructible.
By the time I had completed the battery compartment frame I received my motor. I promptly began adapting to the transmission to the new motor. I used a 25mm aluminium plate and had the coupling made by my local machinist. When I had completed the mating I bolted everything together and started the process of retrofitting the completed engine/transmission unit into the engine bay. I used the two old engine mount points on the chassis and flipped the top mount and welded up a bracket that attached to the front of the motor. With that I place I decided to have a little test. With nothing but a 12 volt battery connected directly to the motor the car happily reversed and moved forward.
With the motor installation completed and checked I went about finishing the rear battery compartment because I had received the 15×8 volt Trojans I had to install.
Tags: Sparky
Gallery, Projects, Sparky | admin0 | May 29, 2009 10:04 am
6 Comments
By T. Mark Jenkins, July 17, 2009 @ 1:57 pm
I have just clocked 300,00klms on my 93 Excel. It has been a great car since new. It is now time to convert to Electric. Are you able to help with the process? ie information and adaptor platesetc. Even cost for your company to complete the entire job.I would be able to do the conversion over many many weekends. Although I would need some clues.
Mark Jenkins
By nathan, July 17, 2009 @ 10:28 pm
Hi mark,
We can do the adaptor plate for you, supply you with all the parts and information you need to convert the vehicle your self.
We also do complete or partial conversions and if your doing the job and need assistance with something we can come to you.
Nathan
By Rodger Kroon, July 21, 2009 @ 3:28 pm
G-R-E-A-T website Nathan.
I’ve seen your work and without a word of exaggeration, it is FANTASTIC! Your conversions are precise and built to go on and on and on. Your work is a credit to you and I wish you well in ALL your endeavours/conversions.
By Kevin, August 10, 2009 @ 1:12 am
I am wondering why you need a transmission on this type of conversion? I am thinking of converting my 83 280zx. I know you may need the drive shaft and trans axles but do you actually shift gears with an electric DC motor? I am curious since I don’t know much about these types of engines.
By nathan, August 13, 2009 @ 11:03 am
Hi Kevin,
With sparky I drive around is 2nd gear most of the time as the speed limit where I am is mostly 60 and at times 70. The advanced dc motor is generally more efficient at 4500rpm as it uses the horse power generated by the pack voltage rather than raw amps to maintain torque. To be honest I’m not sure how many rpm I’m doing at this speed however sparky draws around 55-65amps at 120v (6.6-7.8kW or 8.8-10.4hp) to maintain 60kmph.
From second gear sparky is capable of 0 to 60 in about 10 seconds which is not bad for a 1220kg vehicle sporting an 8 inch advanced dc motor. In 3rd gear it’s more like 25 to 30 seconds. You can take off in 4th gear which I’d consider direct drive but it’s really sluggish.
My advice is to keep the transmission as it’s a torque converter. If it’s around town and you’ve got a 9 or 11 inch motor with a zilla controller you’ll find you’re in third gear all the way. however if you wish to get rid of the transmission go with an 11 inch motor coupled with a zilla controller at 170v+, the car will move.
By Kevin, August 14, 2009 @ 12:28 pm
Nathan,
Thanks for the advice, I am just starting to research this area, as I don’t have a clue on the motors and controllers as of yet, however I find a lot of information on this and other forums.
2009년 9월 5일 토요일
2009년 9월 4일 금요일
Building a Homemade Electric Car With Less Than 300 Dollars in Parts
Browse: Home / car modification kits / Building a Homemade Electric Car With Less Than 300 Dollars in Parts
Building a Homemade Electric Car With Less Than 300 Dollars in Parts
By administrator on August 23, 2009
If you decide to build an electric car on your own, you made a good decision and it is not diffiuclt at all. Owning a lightweight, economy coupe that has been converted to electricity is not only efficient, but it is an excellent choice! You should note, that if everything is done correctly in the conversion process and the selection and placement of components is OK, than you can expect your new electric car to alst even longer than with a gasoline engine. Electric car conversion kits are easily obtained, especially for those lightweight models whose motor is located in the rear such as the Volkswagen Beetle.
Converting lightweight vehicles to build your own electric car allows the owner to utilize a smaller electric motor, which is less expensive and weighs less. By having a lighter overall weight, the electric car will need less power to start and also need less power to take off and to accelerate. In the same way the miles you can drive before you have to recharge your electric car is increased enormously in many common driving conditions.
Owners who need more load capacity or more room to place the batteries will find that a compact sedan is more suited to their preferences. Some of the most commonly sold EV Conversions, such as the latest Ford Ranger EV, are made using this size vehicle. A great example for an electric car conversion is the Honda Civic, the back seat has been retained, nine lead-acid flooded batteries have been placed deep inside the trunk and an additional nine batteries have been placed in the engine area. By replacing the nickel-metal hydride variety of batteries and by putting in another system to manage batteries this feat is accomplished.
Before attempting to build your own electric car, check with state and local authorities. Please note tha in some locations in the US there is a law that the gross vehicle weight rating has to be a certain level. You should note that driving such a car could be illegal, if the conversion causes the total car weight to exceed the recommended, orginal design weight. You should note that under certain circumstances such a vehicle may get insurance cancelled. In order to avoid such catastrophes, hobbyists are advised to increase the spring rating, increase the shock length, make suspension modifications, and to use the smallest and lightest sized batteries and motor to suit their needs.
It is not real hard to turn your car into an electric car in some easy steps. You can now discover how to convert your car into electric for under $300 by reading Peter’s detailed, step-by-step manual! Go to Electricity4Gas
Help answer the question about car modification kits
About Author
I recommend having a look at Peter’s detailed, step-by-step manual that will teach you how to convert your car into electric for under $300}! Go to Electricity4Gas
Posted in car modification kits | Tagged Asiya, Cafe, Jazz, Kobe, New, Scirocco, Volkswagen, VW
65 Comments
1stgenLXTurbo
August 26, 2009 at 6:19 am | Permalink
just go to youtubeDOTcomSLASHgroupSLASHsftuning
bondlovis
http://www.bondlovis.co.uk 020 8478 1812
performance direct
http://www.performancedirect.co.uk/max 0800 916 9822
http://www.performanceinsurance.co.uk 08700 466 577
Building a Homemade Electric Car With Less Than 300 Dollars in Parts
By administrator on August 23, 2009
If you decide to build an electric car on your own, you made a good decision and it is not diffiuclt at all. Owning a lightweight, economy coupe that has been converted to electricity is not only efficient, but it is an excellent choice! You should note, that if everything is done correctly in the conversion process and the selection and placement of components is OK, than you can expect your new electric car to alst even longer than with a gasoline engine. Electric car conversion kits are easily obtained, especially for those lightweight models whose motor is located in the rear such as the Volkswagen Beetle.
Converting lightweight vehicles to build your own electric car allows the owner to utilize a smaller electric motor, which is less expensive and weighs less. By having a lighter overall weight, the electric car will need less power to start and also need less power to take off and to accelerate. In the same way the miles you can drive before you have to recharge your electric car is increased enormously in many common driving conditions.
Owners who need more load capacity or more room to place the batteries will find that a compact sedan is more suited to their preferences. Some of the most commonly sold EV Conversions, such as the latest Ford Ranger EV, are made using this size vehicle. A great example for an electric car conversion is the Honda Civic, the back seat has been retained, nine lead-acid flooded batteries have been placed deep inside the trunk and an additional nine batteries have been placed in the engine area. By replacing the nickel-metal hydride variety of batteries and by putting in another system to manage batteries this feat is accomplished.
Before attempting to build your own electric car, check with state and local authorities. Please note tha in some locations in the US there is a law that the gross vehicle weight rating has to be a certain level. You should note that driving such a car could be illegal, if the conversion causes the total car weight to exceed the recommended, orginal design weight. You should note that under certain circumstances such a vehicle may get insurance cancelled. In order to avoid such catastrophes, hobbyists are advised to increase the spring rating, increase the shock length, make suspension modifications, and to use the smallest and lightest sized batteries and motor to suit their needs.
It is not real hard to turn your car into an electric car in some easy steps. You can now discover how to convert your car into electric for under $300 by reading Peter’s detailed, step-by-step manual! Go to Electricity4Gas
Help answer the question about car modification kits
About Author
I recommend having a look at Peter’s detailed, step-by-step manual that will teach you how to convert your car into electric for under $300}! Go to Electricity4Gas
Posted in car modification kits | Tagged Asiya, Cafe, Jazz, Kobe, New, Scirocco, Volkswagen, VW
65 Comments
1stgenLXTurbo
August 26, 2009 at 6:19 am | Permalink
just go to youtubeDOTcomSLASHgroupSLASHsftuning
bondlovis
http://www.bondlovis.co.uk 020 8478 1812
performance direct
http://www.performancedirect.co.uk/max 0800 916 9822
http://www.performanceinsurance.co.uk 08700 466 577
Chevy S10 Conversion
This section has a lot of pictures, so you can learn by seeing. Regardless of the vehicle you want to convert, what you see here will give you some guidance and ideas.
Engine Removed
The engine has been removed and the compartment has been cleaned using mineral spirits and degreaser. After cleaning, the frame was primed with a zinc primer and painted black.
Note the motor mount that is bolted in place above the cross member awaiting the motor.
Motor Mount
This close-up of the motor mount shows that it is suspended between two rubber engine mounts. Later, these engine mounts ripped almost immediately. I replaced the rubber with metal tangs welded to the rubber mount bases. There is no reason to mount the electric motor on rubber – there is no vibration. Mount your electric motor solidly.
Mount Close Up
This shows the metal tangs/flanges welded to the original rubber mount base. I chiseled the rubber off and burned it with a torch to clean the metal base of all remaining rubber.
Motor Installation
It’s time to install the motor. I made a strong wooden frame with the electric winch on top. A hand operated control made it easy to maneuver the motor into place.
Note that the motor has the motor-to-transmission adapter housing installed and the clutch assembly is in place.
Finished Motor Compartment
There’s a lot to see in the photo to the right.
First, notice the large bolt on the top of the motor, just above and right of the motor information plate. This bolt goes through a short metal tab that is welded to the top motor mount strap. The bolt and tab prevents the motor and transmission from twisting from the enormous motor torque.
Front and center you will see my old oil pan. It now serves as a debris shield to deflect rain that comes in the front of the vehicle and prevents it from getting into the motor brushes without blocking airflow.
Top left is the variable resistor and micro switch assembly, which is mechanically connected to the ‘gas’ pedal via a flexible cable. The variable resistor tells the controller how much current to feed to the motor. The controller is just to the left and above the motor, mounted on a 5/16” thick aluminum plate. Both the motor and the controller run cool, barely above body temperature.
To the right and above the motor is my homemade battery charger. As an electronics engineer, I was able to design and build this to save about $1000 or so. I also designed and built the 12-V charger, not shown in this picture. The charger is kept separated from the main battery bank as a safety measure, in case a small amount of hydrogen is released from the batteries during charge. Now don’t get all excited about that statement. Unless the batteries are charged at too high of a voltage (7.2 V per battery or higher), the hydrogen that is released will be immediately reabsorbed inside the battery and will not escape into the air. Still, a good idea to separate electronics from batteries.
The gray box, top center mounted to the firewall, contains the heavy-duty contactor that passes the heavy current to the controller when it is energized. The control circuitry and the micro switch control the heavy-duty contactor.
Original Controller: Curtis model 1231C-8601, 96-144VDC, 500 Amps max, 0 to 5 k/ohm input
Speed Control w/micro switch: Curtis PB-6
Motor: Advanced DC 9.1", shaft each end, 203-06-4001A
This is my 2nd generation 'Power Wheel' controller that replaced the Curtis.
This is my commercial version 'Power Wheel' controller package - the EVH-PWX16.
Sales of this controller and all products on this Web site have been suspended.
Click here for explanation.
Speed Control Installation
This photo shows how I installed the speed control (PB-6) made by Curtis. Installation was very simple. I added a piece of aluminum angle on the right with a larger flat piece screwed on to capture the accelerator cable sleeve. A piece of scrap iron flat stock was used to mount the control to the remaining plastic plenum for the airco evaporator. Note the added return assist spring that helps pull the control arm back and elevates the gas pedal. A crimp-on closed wire terminal was used to connect the accelerator cable to the control arm with a lose bolt and acorn nut. You can see the three micro switch terminals with attached wires. See the Wiring Diagrams page for details.
Original battery bank - 16 batteries
New battery bank - 24 batteries - October 31, 2008
24 batteries installed to allow 153 V, 500 A testing and calibrating of EVH-PWX16 controllers (when I was selling them)
Batteries Installed
I purchased a small welding machine, a 14” cutoff saw and an angle grinder to do the metal work. The metal stock is 1½” by 1/8” think steel angle and some flat stock. The rack is securely bolted to the frame on each side and holds two rows of eight batteries. Locating the batteries here, behind the cab, provided near perfect balance on all four wheels.
The gray box hanging on the right side of the battery rack is a makeshift fuse box. It contains a 600 A fuse, but 400 A would have been fine. I drilled some holes for venting in the plastic electrical box.
Note the flat-stock strapping across the top of the rack between the batteries. These straps are bolted on with self-locking acorn nuts. Holding the batteries securely in place is very important to prevent additional damage and injury in an accident.
If you look closely, you'll notice the terminal lugs connected to the terminals with a wing nut. I have replaced the terminal lugs with terminal clamps for much better contact and to avoid terminal melt-down. I melted 3 terminals before changing to post clamps.
New Battery Bank
The entire battery bank was replaced on October 31, 2008, increasing the number of batteries to 24. Normally, only 20 batteries are needed for a light truck conversion.
WHY DID YOU PUT ALL OF YOUR BATTERIES BEHIND THE CAB AND NONE UNDER THE HOOD?
I did this because I wanted a lot of elbow room under the hood to install and remove EVH-PWX16 controllers to test and calibrate them before sending the out to customers. I didn't want to be reaching and stretching around batteries.
WHY DID YOU NOT PUT THE BATTERIES DOWN AROUND THE FRAME TO SAVE BED SPACE?
My choice. I wanted to easily see and reach all batteries for quick and easy servicing. They stay clean there too. I wanted to get rid of the 320 lb. bed and make a lighter one with a special enclosure for the batteries.
ISN'T YOUR CENTER OF GRAVITY TOO HIGH AND TOO FAR BACK?
Too high? No. There is no handling problem at all. I usually turn corners at less than 30 mph. Weight distributed too much to the rear? Yes. There is more weight on the back than I would like, however, it has not affected handling at all. I may move 4 batteries under the hood in the future.
Rear-end Work
I removed the original bed, sandblasted the frame, primed it and painted it. As you can see, it looks fresh from the factory.
Note the new-bed rails that I added to provide a firm and flat foundation for the new bed.
Also, notice the extensions (shackles) I added to the leaf springs and the air shocks to gain height. This combination gives me the front-to-rear height balance that I wanted.
Bed Framing
The original bed weighed 320 pounds. Using aluminum framing and ABS plastic sheathing, I was able to reduce that weight and provide a nice compartment for the batteries. Aluminum sheathing can be used as well. 90-degree angle plates and angle brackets give the new bed excellent rigidity. Self-drilling screws make the frame work easy.
The ABS sheathing was attached using countersunk stainless-steel #8 sheet-metal screws. The ABS sheathing can be painted with standard auto paint if you desire.
Bed detail and additional photos are available for $19.95. Mail your check made out to EVhelp, LLC - 5215 NE 14th Court - Ocala, FL 34479
Finished
Here she is! The taillights and side running lights are very bright LED assemblies purchased from the local auto parts store. I added fog lights to the rear, just under the bumper on each side, for backup lights. For additional safety, I placed a 12-V beeper under the rear bumper that activates when I set the transmission into reverse – a courtesy to parking lot pedestrians.
The total conversion time was about 4 months, which included most evenings, most weekends and about 7 vacation days. My total cost including the truck was about $10,000, which included tinkering, research and development.
The truck is very maneuverable and fun to drive. It still has its power ABS brakes and cabin air bags. The DMV had no problems with it because it is basically the same vehicle with a different source of power.
Insuring this vehicle was no problem either. I kept the same insurance company and they didn't care when I told them about the conversion. They wouldn't give me a discount either. :-)
Engine Removed
The engine has been removed and the compartment has been cleaned using mineral spirits and degreaser. After cleaning, the frame was primed with a zinc primer and painted black.
Note the motor mount that is bolted in place above the cross member awaiting the motor.
Motor Mount
This close-up of the motor mount shows that it is suspended between two rubber engine mounts. Later, these engine mounts ripped almost immediately. I replaced the rubber with metal tangs welded to the rubber mount bases. There is no reason to mount the electric motor on rubber – there is no vibration. Mount your electric motor solidly.
Mount Close Up
This shows the metal tangs/flanges welded to the original rubber mount base. I chiseled the rubber off and burned it with a torch to clean the metal base of all remaining rubber.
Motor Installation
It’s time to install the motor. I made a strong wooden frame with the electric winch on top. A hand operated control made it easy to maneuver the motor into place.
Note that the motor has the motor-to-transmission adapter housing installed and the clutch assembly is in place.
Finished Motor Compartment
There’s a lot to see in the photo to the right.
First, notice the large bolt on the top of the motor, just above and right of the motor information plate. This bolt goes through a short metal tab that is welded to the top motor mount strap. The bolt and tab prevents the motor and transmission from twisting from the enormous motor torque.
Front and center you will see my old oil pan. It now serves as a debris shield to deflect rain that comes in the front of the vehicle and prevents it from getting into the motor brushes without blocking airflow.
Top left is the variable resistor and micro switch assembly, which is mechanically connected to the ‘gas’ pedal via a flexible cable. The variable resistor tells the controller how much current to feed to the motor. The controller is just to the left and above the motor, mounted on a 5/16” thick aluminum plate. Both the motor and the controller run cool, barely above body temperature.
To the right and above the motor is my homemade battery charger. As an electronics engineer, I was able to design and build this to save about $1000 or so. I also designed and built the 12-V charger, not shown in this picture. The charger is kept separated from the main battery bank as a safety measure, in case a small amount of hydrogen is released from the batteries during charge. Now don’t get all excited about that statement. Unless the batteries are charged at too high of a voltage (7.2 V per battery or higher), the hydrogen that is released will be immediately reabsorbed inside the battery and will not escape into the air. Still, a good idea to separate electronics from batteries.
The gray box, top center mounted to the firewall, contains the heavy-duty contactor that passes the heavy current to the controller when it is energized. The control circuitry and the micro switch control the heavy-duty contactor.
Original Controller: Curtis model 1231C-8601, 96-144VDC, 500 Amps max, 0 to 5 k/ohm input
Speed Control w/micro switch: Curtis PB-6
Motor: Advanced DC 9.1", shaft each end, 203-06-4001A
This is my 2nd generation 'Power Wheel' controller that replaced the Curtis.
This is my commercial version 'Power Wheel' controller package - the EVH-PWX16.
Sales of this controller and all products on this Web site have been suspended.
Click here for explanation.
Speed Control Installation
This photo shows how I installed the speed control (PB-6) made by Curtis. Installation was very simple. I added a piece of aluminum angle on the right with a larger flat piece screwed on to capture the accelerator cable sleeve. A piece of scrap iron flat stock was used to mount the control to the remaining plastic plenum for the airco evaporator. Note the added return assist spring that helps pull the control arm back and elevates the gas pedal. A crimp-on closed wire terminal was used to connect the accelerator cable to the control arm with a lose bolt and acorn nut. You can see the three micro switch terminals with attached wires. See the Wiring Diagrams page for details.
Original battery bank - 16 batteries
New battery bank - 24 batteries - October 31, 2008
24 batteries installed to allow 153 V, 500 A testing and calibrating of EVH-PWX16 controllers (when I was selling them)
Batteries Installed
I purchased a small welding machine, a 14” cutoff saw and an angle grinder to do the metal work. The metal stock is 1½” by 1/8” think steel angle and some flat stock. The rack is securely bolted to the frame on each side and holds two rows of eight batteries. Locating the batteries here, behind the cab, provided near perfect balance on all four wheels.
The gray box hanging on the right side of the battery rack is a makeshift fuse box. It contains a 600 A fuse, but 400 A would have been fine. I drilled some holes for venting in the plastic electrical box.
Note the flat-stock strapping across the top of the rack between the batteries. These straps are bolted on with self-locking acorn nuts. Holding the batteries securely in place is very important to prevent additional damage and injury in an accident.
If you look closely, you'll notice the terminal lugs connected to the terminals with a wing nut. I have replaced the terminal lugs with terminal clamps for much better contact and to avoid terminal melt-down. I melted 3 terminals before changing to post clamps.
New Battery Bank
The entire battery bank was replaced on October 31, 2008, increasing the number of batteries to 24. Normally, only 20 batteries are needed for a light truck conversion.
WHY DID YOU PUT ALL OF YOUR BATTERIES BEHIND THE CAB AND NONE UNDER THE HOOD?
I did this because I wanted a lot of elbow room under the hood to install and remove EVH-PWX16 controllers to test and calibrate them before sending the out to customers. I didn't want to be reaching and stretching around batteries.
WHY DID YOU NOT PUT THE BATTERIES DOWN AROUND THE FRAME TO SAVE BED SPACE?
My choice. I wanted to easily see and reach all batteries for quick and easy servicing. They stay clean there too. I wanted to get rid of the 320 lb. bed and make a lighter one with a special enclosure for the batteries.
ISN'T YOUR CENTER OF GRAVITY TOO HIGH AND TOO FAR BACK?
Too high? No. There is no handling problem at all. I usually turn corners at less than 30 mph. Weight distributed too much to the rear? Yes. There is more weight on the back than I would like, however, it has not affected handling at all. I may move 4 batteries under the hood in the future.
Rear-end Work
I removed the original bed, sandblasted the frame, primed it and painted it. As you can see, it looks fresh from the factory.
Note the new-bed rails that I added to provide a firm and flat foundation for the new bed.
Also, notice the extensions (shackles) I added to the leaf springs and the air shocks to gain height. This combination gives me the front-to-rear height balance that I wanted.
Bed Framing
The original bed weighed 320 pounds. Using aluminum framing and ABS plastic sheathing, I was able to reduce that weight and provide a nice compartment for the batteries. Aluminum sheathing can be used as well. 90-degree angle plates and angle brackets give the new bed excellent rigidity. Self-drilling screws make the frame work easy.
The ABS sheathing was attached using countersunk stainless-steel #8 sheet-metal screws. The ABS sheathing can be painted with standard auto paint if you desire.
Bed detail and additional photos are available for $19.95. Mail your check made out to EVhelp, LLC - 5215 NE 14th Court - Ocala, FL 34479
Finished
Here she is! The taillights and side running lights are very bright LED assemblies purchased from the local auto parts store. I added fog lights to the rear, just under the bumper on each side, for backup lights. For additional safety, I placed a 12-V beeper under the rear bumper that activates when I set the transmission into reverse – a courtesy to parking lot pedestrians.
The total conversion time was about 4 months, which included most evenings, most weekends and about 7 vacation days. My total cost including the truck was about $10,000, which included tinkering, research and development.
The truck is very maneuverable and fun to drive. It still has its power ABS brakes and cabin air bags. The DMV had no problems with it because it is basically the same vehicle with a different source of power.
Insuring this vehicle was no problem either. I kept the same insurance company and they didn't care when I told them about the conversion. They wouldn't give me a discount either. :-)
DIY AUTOSPEED-자동차등 직접만들어사용하는 사이트
기초 전기회로 공부사이트
http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110893/article.html?popularArticle
http://autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110893/article.html?popularArticle
앞으로 전기도 무선으로 쓴다
뉴시스 | 최철호 | 입력 2009.09.04 02:55 | 누가 봤을까? 40대 남성, 제주
【워싱턴=뉴시스】최철호 특파원 = 전기를 무선으로 쓴다. 전기하면 무조건 선이 있어야 쓸 수 있는 것으로 생각하는 것이 고정관념이다.
그러나 앞으로는 전기도 무선으로 쓸 수 있는 시대가 올 것으로 보인다.
전기를 무선으로 쓸 수 있는 것은 자석이 주변에 자장을 지니면서 주변 금속에 영향을 미치는 원리와 비슷한 원리로 전선 연결없이 전달하는 것으로 설명된다.
이같이 전기를 무선으로 쓰는 것을 상용화하는 기술 개발에 나선 회사가 이제 본격적으로 활동할 것을 밝히고 나섰다.
관심을 끄는 회사는 미국의 와이트리시티(WiTricity) 사이다. 무선으로 사용한다는 뜻에서 와이파이에서 '와이'를, 그리고 전기의 일렉트릭(electricity)에서 말을 가져와 이같이 명명했다.
와이트리시티사는 전기를 자력으로 전환해 일정 거리에 떨어진 다른 장소에 무선으로 보내 이를 다시 전기로 환원시켜 사용하는 개념을 이용한다고 설명했다.
이 회사의 에릭 가일러 사장은 "전기도 무선으로 보내면 전구를 무선으로 사용할 수 있고, 노트북 컴퓨터 역시 선이 없이도 사용할 수 있게 돼 무척 간편해진다"고 강조했다.
이 회사는 매사추세츠주 공과대학(MIT)과 손잡고 기술을 개발, 이를 상용화할 채비를 하고 있다.
전기를 무선으로 전송하는 방법은 사실 오래된 개념이다. 애초 토머스 에디슨이 백열전구를 발명해 전기사용이 가능하게 된 시절부터 니콜라 테슬라라는 과학자가 당시 전기는 선이 없이도 이동돼 사용될 수 있다는 사실을 입증했었다.
전문가들은 전기를 무선으로 사용할 경우 전선을 연결하는 경우보다 훨씬 저렴하고 안전하게 사용할 수 있다고 지적한다.
현재 과학자들은 테슬라의 원리를 이용, 더욱 응용시키면서 전기를 무선으로 공급하는 방법을 다양하게 제시하고 있다.
무선 전기는 현재와 같은 전력공급선의 설치 없이도 사용할 수 있게 돼 그만큼 전기원가를 낮출 수 있으며, 전선이 지나면서 비롯되는 위험사고 역시 원천적으로 배제할 수 있다.
때문에 전력선이 지나는 곳에서의 암발생 빈도 증가라는 논란 역시 원천적으로 배제된다.
그러나 전기를 무선으로 이동시키려면 현재의 기술로서는 거리가 짧은 것이 단점이다. 현재 기술로는 약 1.5마일(약 2.4km) 밖에 전송거리가 나오지 않는다.
실례로 지난 2003년 비츠버그에서 파워케스트라는 회사가 라디오 전파를 이용해 약한 전력의 LED 전구를 밝혔으나 거리가 모두 1.5마일 이내였고, 실제 사용한 것은 건물밖의 전구에 불이 들어오게 하는 정도였다.
때문에 앞으로 무선전기를 본격적으로 사용하기 위해서는 거리를 넓혀야 하는 난제가 남아 있다.
현재 미국내에서는 이 때문에 무선전기 컨서시엄이라는 조직이 생겨 이에따른 문제점을 해소하는 연구를 해가면서 이용방안을 넓혀 나가려는 노력을 하고 있다.
hay@newsis.com
< 저작권자ⓒ '한국언론 뉴스허브' 뉴시스통신사. 무단전재-재배포 금지. >
【워싱턴=뉴시스】최철호 특파원 = 전기를 무선으로 쓴다. 전기하면 무조건 선이 있어야 쓸 수 있는 것으로 생각하는 것이 고정관념이다.
그러나 앞으로는 전기도 무선으로 쓸 수 있는 시대가 올 것으로 보인다.
전기를 무선으로 쓸 수 있는 것은 자석이 주변에 자장을 지니면서 주변 금속에 영향을 미치는 원리와 비슷한 원리로 전선 연결없이 전달하는 것으로 설명된다.
이같이 전기를 무선으로 쓰는 것을 상용화하는 기술 개발에 나선 회사가 이제 본격적으로 활동할 것을 밝히고 나섰다.
관심을 끄는 회사는 미국의 와이트리시티(WiTricity) 사이다. 무선으로 사용한다는 뜻에서 와이파이에서 '와이'를, 그리고 전기의 일렉트릭(electricity)에서 말을 가져와 이같이 명명했다.
와이트리시티사는 전기를 자력으로 전환해 일정 거리에 떨어진 다른 장소에 무선으로 보내 이를 다시 전기로 환원시켜 사용하는 개념을 이용한다고 설명했다.
이 회사의 에릭 가일러 사장은 "전기도 무선으로 보내면 전구를 무선으로 사용할 수 있고, 노트북 컴퓨터 역시 선이 없이도 사용할 수 있게 돼 무척 간편해진다"고 강조했다.
이 회사는 매사추세츠주 공과대학(MIT)과 손잡고 기술을 개발, 이를 상용화할 채비를 하고 있다.
전기를 무선으로 전송하는 방법은 사실 오래된 개념이다. 애초 토머스 에디슨이 백열전구를 발명해 전기사용이 가능하게 된 시절부터 니콜라 테슬라라는 과학자가 당시 전기는 선이 없이도 이동돼 사용될 수 있다는 사실을 입증했었다.
전문가들은 전기를 무선으로 사용할 경우 전선을 연결하는 경우보다 훨씬 저렴하고 안전하게 사용할 수 있다고 지적한다.
현재 과학자들은 테슬라의 원리를 이용, 더욱 응용시키면서 전기를 무선으로 공급하는 방법을 다양하게 제시하고 있다.
무선 전기는 현재와 같은 전력공급선의 설치 없이도 사용할 수 있게 돼 그만큼 전기원가를 낮출 수 있으며, 전선이 지나면서 비롯되는 위험사고 역시 원천적으로 배제할 수 있다.
때문에 전력선이 지나는 곳에서의 암발생 빈도 증가라는 논란 역시 원천적으로 배제된다.
그러나 전기를 무선으로 이동시키려면 현재의 기술로서는 거리가 짧은 것이 단점이다. 현재 기술로는 약 1.5마일(약 2.4km) 밖에 전송거리가 나오지 않는다.
실례로 지난 2003년 비츠버그에서 파워케스트라는 회사가 라디오 전파를 이용해 약한 전력의 LED 전구를 밝혔으나 거리가 모두 1.5마일 이내였고, 실제 사용한 것은 건물밖의 전구에 불이 들어오게 하는 정도였다.
때문에 앞으로 무선전기를 본격적으로 사용하기 위해서는 거리를 넓혀야 하는 난제가 남아 있다.
현재 미국내에서는 이 때문에 무선전기 컨서시엄이라는 조직이 생겨 이에따른 문제점을 해소하는 연구를 해가면서 이용방안을 넓혀 나가려는 노력을 하고 있다.
hay@newsis.com
< 저작권자ⓒ '한국언론 뉴스허브' 뉴시스통신사. 무단전재-재배포 금지. >
2009년 9월 2일 수요일
DIY Electric car modifying
1. Book with Electric Car Modifying.
1) http://www.convert-2-ev.com/?hop=willyap
2) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3155482 ($13,000.00 including car)
=> very important site
3) http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35349
Family Living Off the Grid with Renewable Energy takes Know How and Applies it to Electric Cars... Discovers the 'SECRET' to increasing the range of their Electric car up to an amazing 100 miles from a single charge with revolutionary discovery while building their own Electric Vehicle...How did they do it?
Dear Friends,
For the past 15 years our family has been living off the grid with only solar and wind power. We moved to our present location, built our own house and then we set to work to find alternative energy options that we could afford.
You see our family is no different than yours. We are just regular people who just want to make a difference in their lives. We wanted to lower our electricity costs. We wanted to lower our car expenses. It is getting very expensive out there so we figured out a way to beat it.
Today we live 100% Off-Grid and drive Electric Vehicles.
No we don't own those fancy new hybrids. We learned how to convert our cars to run on electricity at a cost we could afford. We figured out how to do it all for hundreds of dollars, not thousands of dollars. We had to.
And in so doing we figured out how to get 100 miles out of a single charge!
I would like to share with you exactly what we discovered and how we get such tremendous mileage from our revolutionary homemade electric car.
Would you like to discover:
Step by Step How To Convert a Car To Electric.
How to Cut Fuel Costs to Nearly Zero
How To Clean Up The Environment
How To Get Massive IRS Refunds
Can I tell you a secret? We're not very mechanically inclined. We needed a lot of help with this project. And we made a ton of mistakes. But, in all of those mistakes we learned something we can pass on to you so you don't have to make the same mistakes we did.
You see, this electric vehicle thing is only part of what has been a 15 year process to discover the ultimate way we can reduce expenses for living while still maintaining our present standards. We don't want to live without life's little luxuries, just like you.
In learning how to live off the grid we needed massive numbers of batteries and it was in looking for these batteries... that we stumbled onto the answer.
Our home requires a lot of batteries to store energy from our solar panels and wind generators. It was always so expensive to buy new ones, we needed an alternative. Then...
One summer a few years ago a friend of ours told us about a special kind of battery that we could get used (for free) in nearly dead condition and how he had come up with a way to recondition them to nearly new. He had been doing it for years for his RV that had a large solar array on it.
His Method worked fine if you were only going to recondition one or two batteries but we needed to recondition dozens so we had to figure out a better way to apply his process that would work for us. Using our system you can keep a whole bank of used batteries (like you need for an electric car) in nearly new condition for years.
What was so amazing was that these particular batteries had tremendous capacity. When we hooked them up it seemed like our home was always full of power to use. Where before we had to conserve our energy much more strictly to see us through especially cloudy or windless days.
I wanted to make an improvement to our property so I went to get a bunch more of these batteries. Then it hit me! As I was hauling them home in the bed of our pickup truck I thought: "Why not use these same batteries to convert our car to electric?" And that is just what we did...
Did I mention that I am no mechanic? Nearly flunked out of auto mechanics in high school. I just couldn't get it. But, electricity and batteries is somehow easier for me to understand. And it seems like everybody who has read these plans agrees.
We have done 3 conversions for friends and family so far, and decided to let the plans out to a few of our Off Grid Newsletter subscribers to see what they could do with them. And every one of them found they could do it too.
Now, these batteries are kind of heavy and we had to develop ways of mounting them in our car (and our truck) that would accomodate the weight. We found all sorts of creative ways that the average guy can do this too.
Of course we did get all sorts of people to help us when we started. The local high school shop teacher was interested in our project and offered to help, and our neighbors too... It seemed like there was always somebody here when we were working on them. Why? Because they wanted to do their own conversion and they just didn't believe me when I told them I was doing it myself. Most people just don't think it's possible.
"Well, pound nails to build your house, maybe", they would say. "But, build your own Electric Car? Doubt it."
So they would hang around and learn from watching us that even the could do it. Now they are smiling too, converting their own.
Living Off Grid means you have to be resourceful and it served us well in doing our first EV conversions. We have managed to find sources of nearly free DC motors which literally save thousands of dollars in doing a conversion to electric.
You may have heard that the cost to convert a vehicle is close to $10,000. I guess you could pay that much if you really wanted to. But with our new methods adapted from 15 years of living with renewable energy we will show you how to do an EV conversion for only a few hundred dollars... depending on your resourcefulness.
Let's look at what a few of our Off Grid Newsletter subscribers have to say about it.
From email...
We couldn't have done this without your help. Thanks for the email support that you provided to see us through. We couldn't have done it without you. My wife now has a great vehicle for going to work and doing the shopping around town. Perfect...
Wilf
Florida
From email...
Just finished our project car, the Toyota, just like you suggested worked great. It feels so good to drive by those gas stations, our range per charge is just over 200 miles, which is great. We are now working on the off road vehicle conversion you suggested.
Steve
Toronto, Canada
First The Proof that it works, let's take a test drive in an electric car. Check out this video of one of our favorite actors, Tom Hanks and his own Electric car. Thanks Tom.
1) http://www.convert-2-ev.com/?hop=willyap
2) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3155482 ($13,000.00 including car)
=> very important site
3) http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35349
Family Living Off the Grid with Renewable Energy takes Know How and Applies it to Electric Cars... Discovers the 'SECRET' to increasing the range of their Electric car up to an amazing 100 miles from a single charge with revolutionary discovery while building their own Electric Vehicle...How did they do it?
Dear Friends,
For the past 15 years our family has been living off the grid with only solar and wind power. We moved to our present location, built our own house and then we set to work to find alternative energy options that we could afford.
You see our family is no different than yours. We are just regular people who just want to make a difference in their lives. We wanted to lower our electricity costs. We wanted to lower our car expenses. It is getting very expensive out there so we figured out a way to beat it.
Today we live 100% Off-Grid and drive Electric Vehicles.
No we don't own those fancy new hybrids. We learned how to convert our cars to run on electricity at a cost we could afford. We figured out how to do it all for hundreds of dollars, not thousands of dollars. We had to.
And in so doing we figured out how to get 100 miles out of a single charge!
I would like to share with you exactly what we discovered and how we get such tremendous mileage from our revolutionary homemade electric car.
Would you like to discover:
Step by Step How To Convert a Car To Electric.
How to Cut Fuel Costs to Nearly Zero
How To Clean Up The Environment
How To Get Massive IRS Refunds
Can I tell you a secret? We're not very mechanically inclined. We needed a lot of help with this project. And we made a ton of mistakes. But, in all of those mistakes we learned something we can pass on to you so you don't have to make the same mistakes we did.
You see, this electric vehicle thing is only part of what has been a 15 year process to discover the ultimate way we can reduce expenses for living while still maintaining our present standards. We don't want to live without life's little luxuries, just like you.
In learning how to live off the grid we needed massive numbers of batteries and it was in looking for these batteries... that we stumbled onto the answer.
Our home requires a lot of batteries to store energy from our solar panels and wind generators. It was always so expensive to buy new ones, we needed an alternative. Then...
One summer a few years ago a friend of ours told us about a special kind of battery that we could get used (for free) in nearly dead condition and how he had come up with a way to recondition them to nearly new. He had been doing it for years for his RV that had a large solar array on it.
His Method worked fine if you were only going to recondition one or two batteries but we needed to recondition dozens so we had to figure out a better way to apply his process that would work for us. Using our system you can keep a whole bank of used batteries (like you need for an electric car) in nearly new condition for years.
What was so amazing was that these particular batteries had tremendous capacity. When we hooked them up it seemed like our home was always full of power to use. Where before we had to conserve our energy much more strictly to see us through especially cloudy or windless days.
I wanted to make an improvement to our property so I went to get a bunch more of these batteries. Then it hit me! As I was hauling them home in the bed of our pickup truck I thought: "Why not use these same batteries to convert our car to electric?" And that is just what we did...
Did I mention that I am no mechanic? Nearly flunked out of auto mechanics in high school. I just couldn't get it. But, electricity and batteries is somehow easier for me to understand. And it seems like everybody who has read these plans agrees.
We have done 3 conversions for friends and family so far, and decided to let the plans out to a few of our Off Grid Newsletter subscribers to see what they could do with them. And every one of them found they could do it too.
Now, these batteries are kind of heavy and we had to develop ways of mounting them in our car (and our truck) that would accomodate the weight. We found all sorts of creative ways that the average guy can do this too.
Of course we did get all sorts of people to help us when we started. The local high school shop teacher was interested in our project and offered to help, and our neighbors too... It seemed like there was always somebody here when we were working on them. Why? Because they wanted to do their own conversion and they just didn't believe me when I told them I was doing it myself. Most people just don't think it's possible.
"Well, pound nails to build your house, maybe", they would say. "But, build your own Electric Car? Doubt it."
So they would hang around and learn from watching us that even the could do it. Now they are smiling too, converting their own.
Living Off Grid means you have to be resourceful and it served us well in doing our first EV conversions. We have managed to find sources of nearly free DC motors which literally save thousands of dollars in doing a conversion to electric.
You may have heard that the cost to convert a vehicle is close to $10,000. I guess you could pay that much if you really wanted to. But with our new methods adapted from 15 years of living with renewable energy we will show you how to do an EV conversion for only a few hundred dollars... depending on your resourcefulness.
Let's look at what a few of our Off Grid Newsletter subscribers have to say about it.
From email...
We couldn't have done this without your help. Thanks for the email support that you provided to see us through. We couldn't have done it without you. My wife now has a great vehicle for going to work and doing the shopping around town. Perfect...
Wilf
Florida
From email...
Just finished our project car, the Toyota, just like you suggested worked great. It feels so good to drive by those gas stations, our range per charge is just over 200 miles, which is great. We are now working on the off road vehicle conversion you suggested.
Steve
Toronto, Canada
First The Proof that it works, let's take a test drive in an electric car. Check out this video of one of our favorite actors, Tom Hanks and his own Electric car. Thanks Tom.
Electric motor Vehicle Modifying
Do It Yourself Electric Car Conversion
http://www.cbelectriccar.com/diyelectriccar/index.html
The Right Way Of Converting A Gas Guzzler To ElectricAre you concerned by the rising gasoline prices? Back in mid 2008, many people was surprised by the sudden rise of global crude oil prices. It reached a dizzying level of $150 per barrel. That in effect has made local gasoline prices to sky rocketed. Many car owners were frantically searching for ways to reduce their gas bill. One way of cutting off your dependency on fossil fuel is to use electricity for your vehicle. Unfortunately, pure electric cars from the manufacturers are still relatively expensive. How can you get your hands on an electric vehicle? Why not build an electric car via DIY from your home garage...Many electric car enthusiasts are converting their gasoline driven cars to run on electricity. The idea is to remove the internal combustion engine (ICE) and replaces it with a DC or AC electric motor. To power the motor, you will need a series of deep cycle batteries. If you are not good with hand tools or familiar with the internal workings of an automobile, it would be a better idea to outsource the conversion work to a profession mechanic. As a car owner, you should be prudent.The least you can do is get some basic knowledge on the science of an electric vehicle. With the information at hand, at least you will know when you are being charged for unnecessary parts or work done on your car.Armed Yourself With Knowledge With An Electric Car Conversion GuideIf you are looking for an electric car conversion guide, you should check out Les Oke's Convert 2 EV. Les and his family lives a green lifestyle for more than 20 years. They try their best not to pollute the environment. One way of doing so is by driving pure electric cars. Les has converted numerous gasoline guzzlers to EVs. Convert 2 EV is his knowledge and experience packed into an e-book. The e-book is actually written for beginners. You will be glad to know there are no confusing technical jargon in this manual.Click Here to see Les Oke's Convert 2 EV. This will be the only guide you'll need to understand the process of electric car conversion ------>
2. Electric vehicle moditying
http://cbelectriccar.com/blog/
Electric Car Motor - Choosing The Right Motor For Your DIY EV
June 10th, 2009 Electric Motor
Choosing The Right Electric Motor For EV Conversion
In this blog post, I though of writing something on electric car motor. Specifically, how to select the right electric motor for your Do It Yourself (DIY) electric vehicle (EV).
If you are looking for an electric motor, either at a workshop, EBay or on the internet, look for a unit that weights 100 - 150 lbs. Depending on your donor car, if there is a lot of weigh, there would be a lot of inertia and it needs large amount of force to push it around. Imagine this, you don’t want a small and skinny guy to pull on your EV. Probably, you would not want to feed a sumo wrestler either. What I’m trying to say is you don’t want an electric motor that is too small or too big.
When you are searching for electric motor, look at the core. Look for insulation that is wine colored with yellow banding. Make sure the brush leads are still copper color and not scotched. You also want to make sure the commutator is not grooved or pitted. If you want a closer look, just open the cover band and probe inside the electric motor.
Here’s another tip. Look for armatures that have a commutator with a large bar count. The larger the bar count, the higher the voltage it’ll take. If you want to build a speedy electric car, this is what you have to look for.
If you are looking for a series motor, get one with solid field leads or you might end up with compound would motor that may not suit your DIY electric vehicle needs.
One key aspect of selecting an electric motor is the shaft. Make sure you look for a shaft that you think you can attach or modify with a coupler. There are certain motor shafts that aren’t easy to modify. If you make a blunder, that are no “standard” replacement parts either. If you mess up, you might have to discard the whole motor.
Choosing the right electric motor for your DIY electric car conversion does not have to be difficult. But you need to think about what you want and also know what to look for. If the information above seems foreign to you, you may want to get some basic knowledge on electric car conversion. In that case, check out Les Oke’s Convert 2 EV.
Related web sites:1) Convert 2 EV Review
2) Peter Millward Electricity 4 Gas Manual Review
2 comments ↓
#1 Battery For DIY Electric Car Conversion - The AGM Battery EV Conversion DIY Electric Car Conversion Blog on 06.26.09 at 3:31 am
[...] For an electric vehicle (EV) instep of the internal combustion engine (ICE), you are now using an electric motor to generate torque. To spin the motor, you need an electric power source, which is the battery [...]
#2 Cheap Electric Donor Car From Government Car Auctions Donor Car DIY Electric Car Conversion Blog on 07.16.09 at 2:22 am
[...] Electric Car Motor - Choosing The Right Motor For Your DIY EV Other related web sites: hopfeed_template=”"; [...]
http://www.cbelectriccar.com/diyelectriccar/index.html
The Right Way Of Converting A Gas Guzzler To ElectricAre you concerned by the rising gasoline prices? Back in mid 2008, many people was surprised by the sudden rise of global crude oil prices. It reached a dizzying level of $150 per barrel. That in effect has made local gasoline prices to sky rocketed. Many car owners were frantically searching for ways to reduce their gas bill. One way of cutting off your dependency on fossil fuel is to use electricity for your vehicle. Unfortunately, pure electric cars from the manufacturers are still relatively expensive. How can you get your hands on an electric vehicle? Why not build an electric car via DIY from your home garage...Many electric car enthusiasts are converting their gasoline driven cars to run on electricity. The idea is to remove the internal combustion engine (ICE) and replaces it with a DC or AC electric motor. To power the motor, you will need a series of deep cycle batteries. If you are not good with hand tools or familiar with the internal workings of an automobile, it would be a better idea to outsource the conversion work to a profession mechanic. As a car owner, you should be prudent.The least you can do is get some basic knowledge on the science of an electric vehicle. With the information at hand, at least you will know when you are being charged for unnecessary parts or work done on your car.Armed Yourself With Knowledge With An Electric Car Conversion GuideIf you are looking for an electric car conversion guide, you should check out Les Oke's Convert 2 EV. Les and his family lives a green lifestyle for more than 20 years. They try their best not to pollute the environment. One way of doing so is by driving pure electric cars. Les has converted numerous gasoline guzzlers to EVs. Convert 2 EV is his knowledge and experience packed into an e-book. The e-book is actually written for beginners. You will be glad to know there are no confusing technical jargon in this manual.Click Here to see Les Oke's Convert 2 EV. This will be the only guide you'll need to understand the process of electric car conversion ------>
2. Electric vehicle moditying
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Electric Car Motor - Choosing The Right Motor For Your DIY EV
June 10th, 2009 Electric Motor
Choosing The Right Electric Motor For EV Conversion
In this blog post, I though of writing something on electric car motor. Specifically, how to select the right electric motor for your Do It Yourself (DIY) electric vehicle (EV).
If you are looking for an electric motor, either at a workshop, EBay or on the internet, look for a unit that weights 100 - 150 lbs. Depending on your donor car, if there is a lot of weigh, there would be a lot of inertia and it needs large amount of force to push it around. Imagine this, you don’t want a small and skinny guy to pull on your EV. Probably, you would not want to feed a sumo wrestler either. What I’m trying to say is you don’t want an electric motor that is too small or too big.
When you are searching for electric motor, look at the core. Look for insulation that is wine colored with yellow banding. Make sure the brush leads are still copper color and not scotched. You also want to make sure the commutator is not grooved or pitted. If you want a closer look, just open the cover band and probe inside the electric motor.
Here’s another tip. Look for armatures that have a commutator with a large bar count. The larger the bar count, the higher the voltage it’ll take. If you want to build a speedy electric car, this is what you have to look for.
If you are looking for a series motor, get one with solid field leads or you might end up with compound would motor that may not suit your DIY electric vehicle needs.
One key aspect of selecting an electric motor is the shaft. Make sure you look for a shaft that you think you can attach or modify with a coupler. There are certain motor shafts that aren’t easy to modify. If you make a blunder, that are no “standard” replacement parts either. If you mess up, you might have to discard the whole motor.
Choosing the right electric motor for your DIY electric car conversion does not have to be difficult. But you need to think about what you want and also know what to look for. If the information above seems foreign to you, you may want to get some basic knowledge on electric car conversion. In that case, check out Les Oke’s Convert 2 EV.
Related web sites:1) Convert 2 EV Review
2) Peter Millward Electricity 4 Gas Manual Review
2 comments ↓
#1 Battery For DIY Electric Car Conversion - The AGM Battery EV Conversion DIY Electric Car Conversion Blog on 06.26.09 at 3:31 am
[...] For an electric vehicle (EV) instep of the internal combustion engine (ICE), you are now using an electric motor to generate torque. To spin the motor, you need an electric power source, which is the battery [...]
#2 Cheap Electric Donor Car From Government Car Auctions Donor Car DIY Electric Car Conversion Blog on 07.16.09 at 2:22 am
[...] Electric Car Motor - Choosing The Right Motor For Your DIY EV Other related web sites: hopfeed_template=”"; [...]
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